Ui chao, đọc lại
cái đoạn nhật ký của Greene, về những ngày đầu làm quen Cô Ba, mới thấy
sướng
làm sao! Gấu post lại ở đây, để gợi hứng, viết ra những kỷ niệm của
Gấu, về
những ngày đầu, về những bạn bè cùng vướng vào cái thú đau thương này.
Cũng là
một cách tự thú trước “tòa án lịch sử”, về “nghi án”, “có mấy NQT”.
Tiếp theo liền những trang nhật ký viết về Cô Ba, Greene bắt qua trận
đánh Điện
Biên Phủ, với những nhận định thật hách về trận đánh này:
There remains another memory which I find it difficult to dispel, the
doom-laden twenty-fours I spent in Dien Bien Phu in January 1954. Nine
years later when I was
asked by the Sunday Times to write on ‘a decisive battle of my
choice',
it was Dien Bien Phu
that came straightway to my mind.
Fifteen Decisive Battles of the World - Sir Edward
Creasy gave that
classic title to his book in 1851, but it is doubtful whether any
battle listed
there was more decisive than Dien
Bien Phu in 1954. Even Sedan, which came too
late for
Creasy, was only an episode in Franco-German relations, decisive for
the moment
in a provincial dispute, but the decision was to be reversed in 1918,
and that
decision again in 1940.
Dien Bien Phu,
however, was a defeat for more than the French army. The battle marked
virtually the end of any hope the Western Powers might have entertained
that
they could dominate the East. The French with Cartesian clarity
accepted the
verdict. So, too, to a lesser extent, did the British: the independence
of
Malaya, whether the Malays like to think it or not, was won for them
when the
Communist forces of General Giap, an ex-geography professor of Hanoi
University, defeated the forces of General Navarre, ex-cavalry officer,
ex-Deuxieme Bureau chief, at Dien Bien Phu. (That young Americans were
still to
die in Vietnam
only shows that it takes time for the echoes even of a total defeat to
encircle
the globe.)
Điện Biên Phủ không chỉ là hồi chuông báo tử cho quân đội Pháp, mà còn
hơn thế
nhiều! Nó đánh dấu chấm hết mọi hy vọng ăn cướp của Tây Phương đối với
Đông
Phương! Chín năm sau trận đánh, khi tờ Thời Báo Chủ Nhật gợi ý,
tôi nghĩ
liền đến trận đánh thần sầu này.
Võ tướng quân đọc mà chẳng sướng mê tơi sao?
*
31
December 1953. Saigon
One of the interests of far
places is 'the friend of friends': some
quality has
attracted somebody you know, will it also attract yourself? This
evening such a
one came to see me, a naval doctor. After a whisky in my room, I drove
round Saigon with him, on
the back of his motorcycle, to a couple of opium fumeries. The first
was a
cheap one, on the first floor over a tiny school where pupils were
prepared for
'le certificat et le brevet'. The proprietor was smoking himself: a
malade imaginaire
dehydrated by his sixty pipes a day. A young girl asleep, and a young
boy.
Opium should not be for the young, but as the Chinese believe for the
middle-aged and the old. Pipes here cost 10 piastres each (say 2s.).
Then we
went on to a more elegant establishment - Chez Pola. Here one
reserves
the room and can bring a companion. A great Chinese umbrella over the
big
circular bed. A bookshelf full of books beside the bed - it was odd to
find two
of my own novels in a fumerie: Le Ministère de la Peur, and Rocher
de Brighton. I wrote a dédicace in each of them. Here
the pipes cost 30
piastres.
My experience of opium began in October 1951 when I was in Haiphong on the way to
the Baie d' Along. A French official took me after dinner to a small
apartment in
a back street - I could smell the opium as I came up the stairs. It was
like
the first sight of a beautiful woman with
whom one realizes that a relationship is possible: somebody whose
memory will
not be dimmed by a night's sleep.
The madame decided that as I
was a debutant I must have only four pipes, and so I am grateful to her
that my
first experience was delightful and not spoiled by the nausea of
over-smoking.
The ambiance won my heart at once - the hard couch, the leather pillow
like a
brick these stand for a certain austerity, the athleticism of pleasure,
while
the small lamp glowing on the face of the pipe-maker, as he kneads his
little
ball of brown gum over the flame until it bubbles and alters shape like
a
dream, the dimmed lights, the little chaste cups of unsweetened green
tea,
these stand for the' luxe et volupte'.
Each pipe from the moment the
needle plunges the little ball home and the bowl is reversed over the
flame
lasts no more than a quarter of a minute - the true inhaler can draw a
whole
pipeful into his lungs in one long inhalation. After two pipes I felt a
certain
drowsiness, after four my mind felt alert and calm - unhappiness and
fear of
the future became like something dimly remembered which I had thought
important
once. I, who feel shy at exhibiting the grossness of my French, found
myself
reciting a poem of Baudelaire to my companion, that beautiful poem of
escape, Invitation au Voyage. When I got home
that night I experienced for the first time the white night of opium.
One lies
relaxed and wakeful, not wanting sleep. We dread wakefulness when our
thoughts
are disturbed, but in this state one is calm - it would be wrong even
to say
that one is happy - happiness disturbs the pulse. And then suddenly
without
warning one sleeps. Never has one slept so deeply a whole night-long
sleep, and
then the waking and the luminous dial of the clock showing that twenty
minutes
of so-called real time have gone by. Again the calm lying awake, again
the deep
brief all-night sleep. Once in Saigon after smoking I went to bed at
1.30 and
had to rise again at 4.00 to catch a bomber to Hanoi, but in those less three hours
I slept
all tiredness away.
Not that night, but many
nights later, I had a curiously vivid dream. One does not dream as a
rule after
smoking, though sometimes one wakes with panic terror; one dreams, they
say,
during disintoxication, like de Quincey, when the mind and the body are
at war.
I dreamed that in some intellectual discussion I made the remark, 'It
would
have been interesting if at the birth of Our Lord there had been
present
someone who saw nothing at all,' and then, in the way that dreams have,
I was
that man. The shepherds were kneeling in prayer, the Wise Men were
offering
their gifts (I can still see in memory the shoulder and red-brown robe
of one
of them - the Ethiopian), but they were praying to, offering gifts to,
nothing
- a blank wall. I was puzzled and disturbed. I thought, 'If they are
offering
to nothing, they know what they are about, so I will offer to nothing
too,' and
putting my hand in my pocket I found a gold piece with which I had
intended to
buy myself a woman in Bethlehem. Years later I was reading one of the
gospels
and recognized the scene at which I had been an onlooker . “So they
were
offering their gifts to the mother of God,” I thought. 'Well, I brought
that
gold piece to Bethlehem
to give to a woman, and it seems I gave it to a woman after all.'
10 January 1954. Hanoi
With French friends to the
Chinese quarter of Hanoi.
We called first for our Chinese friend living over his warehouse of
dried
medicines from Hong Kong - bales and
bales and
bales of brittle quackery. The family were all gathered in one upper
room with
the dog and the cat - husband and wife, daughters, grandparents,
cousins. After
a cup of tea we paid a visit to a relative - variously known as Serpent
Head
and the Happiest Man in the World. All these Chinese houses have little
frontage, but run back a long way from the street. The Happiest Man in
the
World sat there between the narrow walls like a tunnel, in thin pajamas
- he
never troubled to dress. He was rich and he had inherited the business
from his
father before it was necessary for him to work and when his sons were
already
old enough to do the work for him. He was like a piece of dried
medicine
himself, skeletonized by opium. In the background the mah-jong players
built
their walls, demolished, reshuffled. They didn't even have to look at
the
pieces they drew, they could tell the design by a touch of the finger.
The game
made a noise like a stormy tide turning the shingle on a beach. I
smoked two
pipes as an aperitif, and after dinner at the New Pagoda returned and
smoked
five more.
11 January 1954. Hanoi
Dinner with French friends
and afterwards smoked six pipes. Gunfire and the heavy sound of
helicopters low
over the roofs bringing the wounded from - somewhere. The nearer you
are to
war, the less you know what is happening. The daily paper in Hanoi
prints less than the daily paper in Saigon, and that prints less than
the
papers in Paris.
The noise of the helicopters had an odd effect on opium smoking. It
drowned the
soft bubble of the wax over the flame, and because the pipe was silent,
the
opium seemed to lose a great deal of its perfume, in the way that a
cigarette
loses taste in the open air.
12 January 1954. Vientiane
Up early to catch a military
plane to Vientiane, the administrative
capital
of Laos.
The plane was a freighter with no seats. I sat on a packing case and
was glad
to arrive.
After lunch I made a rapid
tour of Vientiane.
Apart from one pagoda and the long sands of the Mekong
river, it is an uninteresting town consisting only of two real streets,
one
European restaurant, a club, the usual grubby market where apart from
food
there is only the debris of civilization - withered tubes of
toothpaste,
shop-soiled soaps, pots and pans from the Bon Marche. Fishes were small
and
expensive and covered with flies. There were little packets of dyed
sweets and
sickly cakes made out of rice colored mauve and pink. The fortune-maker
of Vientiane
was a man with
a small site let out as a bicycle park - hundreds of bicycles at 2
piastres a
time (say 20 centimes). When he had paid for his concession he was
likely to
make 600 piastres a day profit (say 6,000 francs). But in Eastern
countries
there are always wheels within wheels, and it was probable that the
concessionaire was only the ghost for one of the princes.
Sometimes one wonders why one
bothers to travel, to come eight thousand miles to find only Vientiane
at the
end of the road, and yet there is a curious satisfaction later, when
one reads
in England the war communiqués and the familiar names start from the
page - Nam
Dinh, Vientiane, Luang Prabang -looking so important temporarily on a
newspaper
page as though part of history, to remember them in terms of mauve rice
cakes,
the rat crossing the restaurant floor as it did tonight until it was
chased
away behind the bar. Places in history, one learns, are not so
important.
After dinner to the house of
Mr. X, a Eurasian and a habitual smoker. Thinned by his pipes, with
bony wrists
and ankles and the arms of a small boy, Mr. X was a charming and
melancholy
companion. He spoke beautifully clear French, peering down at his
needle
through steel-rimmed spectacles. His house was a hovel too small for
him to
find room for his wife and child whom he had left in Phnom Penh.
There was nothing to do in the
evening - the cinema showed only the oldest films, and there was really
nothing
to do all day either, but wait outside the government office where he
was
employed on small errands. A palm tree was his bookcase and he would
slip his
book or his newspaper into the crevices of the trunk when summoned into
the
house. Once I needed some wrapping paper and he went to the palm tree
to see
whether he had any saved. His opium was excellent, pure Laos
opium, and
he prepared the pipes admirably. Soon his French employers would be
packing up
in Laos, he would
go to France,
he
would have no more opium - all the ease of life would vanish but he was
incapable of considering the future. His sad amused Asiatic face peered
down at
the pipe while his bony fingers kneaded and warmed the brown seed of
contentment, and he spoke musically and precisely like a don on the
types and
years of opium - the opium of Laos,
Yunan, Szechuan, Istanbul, Benares -
ah, Benares, that was a kind to
remember over the years. *
13 January 1954
On again to Luang Prabang.
Where Vientiane
has two streets Luang Prabang has one, some shops, a tiny modest royal
palace
(the King is as poor as the state) and opposite the palace a steep hill
crowned
by a pagoda which contains - so it is believed - the giant footprint of
Buddha.
Little side streets run down to the Mekong,
here full of water. There is a sense of trees, temples, small quiet
homes, river
and peace. One can see the whole town in half an hour's walk, and one
could
live here, one feels, for weeks, working, walking, sleeping, if the
Viet Minh
were not on their way down from the mountains. We determined, tomorrow
before
returning, to take a boat up the Mekong
to the
grotto and the statue of Buddha which protects Luang Prabang from her
enemies.
There is more atmosphere of prayer in a pagoda than in most churches.
The
features of Buddha cannot be sentimentalized like the features of
Christ, there
are no hideous pictures on the wall, no stations of the Cross, no
straining
after unfelt agonies. I found myself praying to Buddha as always when I
enter a
pagoda, for now surely he is among our saints and his intercession will
be as
powerful as the Little Flower's - perhaps more powerful here among a
race akin
to his own.
After dinner I was very
tired, but five pipes of inferior opium - bitter with dross - smoked in
a
chauffeur's house made me feel fresh again. It was a house on piles and
at the
end of the long narrow veranda, screened from the dark and the
mosquitoes, a
small son knelt at a table doing his lessons while his mother squatted
beside
him. The soft recitation of his lesson accompanied the murmur and the
bubble of
the pipe.
16 January 1954. Saigon .
Laos remained careless Laos
till the end. f was worried by
the late arrival of the car and only just caught the plane which left
the
airfield at 7.00 in the dark. Two stops on the way to Saigon.
I got in about 12.30. Why is it that Saigon
is always so good to come back to? I remember on
my first journey to Africa, when I walked across Liberia,
I used to dream of the
delights of a hot bath, a good meal, a comfortable bed. I wanted to go
straight
from the African hut with the rats
* A connoisseur would say
'The number 1 Xieng Khouang opium of Laos' when referring to the
best
opium from this country. (As, for instance, rubber from Malaya
is described as Number1R.S.S.) Xieng Khouang is a province to the
north-east of Vientiane
where
the best opium is grown.
running
down
the wall at
night to some luxury hotel in Europe
and enjoy
the contrast. In fact one never satisfactorily found the contrast -
either in Liberia
or later in Mexico.
Civilization was always
broken to one slowly: the trader's establishment at Grand Bassa was a
great
deal better than the jungle, the Consulate at Monrovia
was better than the tradesman's house, the cargo boat was an approach
to
civilization, by the time one reached England the contrast had
been
completely lost. Here in Indo-China one does capture the contrast: Vientiane is a century away from Saigon.
18 January 1954
After drinking with M and D
of the Sureté and a dinner with a number of people from the Legation, I
returned early to the hotel in order to meet a police commissioner
(half-caste)
and two Vietnamese plainclothes men who were going to take me on a tour
of Saigon's night side. Our first
fumerie was in the paillote district - a district of
thatched houses in a bad state of repair. In a small yard off the main
street
one found a complete village life - there was a cafe, a restaurant, a
brothel,
a fumerie. We climbed up a wooden ladder to an attic immediately under
the
thatch. The sloping roof was too low to stand upright, so that one
could only
crawl from the ladder on to one of the two big double mattresses spread
on the
floor covered with a clean white sheet. A cook was fetched and a girl,
an
attractive, dirty, slightly squint-eyed girl, who had obviously been
summoned
for my private pleasure. The police commissioner said, 'There is a
saying that
a pipe prepared by a woman is more sweet.' In fact the girl only went
through
the motions of warming the opium bead for a moment before handing it
over to
the expert cook. Not knowing how many fumeries the night would produce
I smoked
only two pipes, and after the first pipe the Vietnamese police
scrambled
discreetly down the ladder so that I could make use of the double bed.
This I
had no wish to do. If there had been no other reason it would still
have been
difficult to concentrate on pleasure, with the three Vietnamese police
officers
at the bottom of the ladder, a few feet away, listening and drinking
cups of
tea. My only word of Vietnamese was 'No,' and the girl's only word of
English
was 'OK,' and it became a polite struggle between the two phrases.
At the bottom of the ladder I
had a cup of tea with the police officers and the very beautiful madame
who had
the calm face of a young nun. I tried to explain to the Vietnamese
commissioner
that my interest tonight was in ambiance only. This dampened the
spirits of the
party.
I asked them whether they
could show me a more elegant brothel and they drove at once towards the
outskirts of the city. It was now about one o'clock in the morning. We
stopped
by a small wayside café and entered. Immediately inside the door there
was a
large bed with a tumble of girls on it and one man emerging from the
flurry. I
caught sight of a face, a sleeve, a foot. We went through to the cafe
and drank
orangeade. The madame reminded me of the old Javanese bawd in South
Pacific.
When we left the man on the bed had gone and a couple of Americans sat
among
the girls, waiting for their pipes. One was bearded and gold-spectacled
and
looked like a professor and the other was wearing shorts. The night was
very
mosquitoes and he must have been bitten almost beyond endurance.
Perhaps this
made his temper short. He seemed to think we had come in to close the
place and
resented me.
After the loud angry voices
of the Americans, the bearded face and the fat knees, it was a change
to enter
a Chinese fumerie in Cholon. Here in this place of bare wooden shelves
were
quiet and courtesy. The price of pipes - one price for small pipes and
one
price for large pipes - hung on the wall. I had never seen this before
in a
fumerie. I smoked two pipes only and the Chinese proprietor refused to
allow me
to pay. He said I was the first European to smoke there and that he
would not
take my money. It was 2.30 and I went home to bed. I had disappointed
my
Vietnamese companions. In the night I woke dispirited by the faults of
the play
I was writing, The Potting Shed, and
tried unsuccessfully to revise it in my mind.
20 January 1954. Phnom Penh
After dinner my host and I
drove to the centre of Phnom
Penh
and parked the car. I signaled to a rickshaw driver, putting my thumb
in my
mouth and making a gesture rather like a long nose. This is always
understood
to mean that one wants to smoke. He led us to a rather dreary yard off
the rue
A -. There were a lot of dustbins, a rat moved among them, and a few
people lay
under shabby mosquito-nets. Upstairs on the first floor, off a balcony,
was the
fumerie. It was fairly full and the trousers were hanging like banners
in a
cathedral nave. I had eight pipes and a distinguished looking man in
underpants
helped to translate my wishes. He was apparently a teacher of English.
9 February 1954. Saigon
After dinner at the
Arc-en-Ciel, to the fumerie opposite the Casino above the school. I had
only
five pipes, but that night was very dopey. First I had a nightmare,
then I was
haunted by squares - architectural squares which reminded me of Angkor,
equal
distances, etc., and then mathematical squares - people's income, etc.,
square
after square after square which seemed to go on all night. At last I
woke and
when I slept again I had a strange complete dream such as I have
experienced
only after opium. I was coming down the steps of a club in St James's Street
and on the steps I met
the Devil who was wearing a tweed motoring coat and a deerstalker cap.
He had
long black Edwardian moustaches. In the street a girl, with whom I was
apparently living, was waiting for me in a car. The Devil stopped me
and asked
whether I would like to have a year to live again or to skip a year and
see
what would be happening to me two years from now. I told him I had no
wish to
live over any year again and I would like to have a glimpse of two
years ahead.
Immediately the Devil vanished and I was holding in my hands a letter.
I opened
the letter - it was from some girl whom I knew only slightly. It was a
very
tender letter, and a letter of farewell. Obviously during that missing
year we
had reached a relationship which she was now ending. Looking down at
the woman
in the car I thought, ‘I must not show her the letter, for how absurd
it would
be if she were to be jealous of a girl whom I don't yet know.' I went
into my
room (I was no longer in the club) and tore the letter into small
pieces, but
at the bottom of the envelope were some beads which must have had a
sentimental
significance. I was unwilling to destroy these and opening a drawer put
them in
and locked the drawer. As I did so it suddenly occurred to me, ‘In two
years'
time I shall be doing just this, opening a drawer, putting away the
beads, and
finding the beads are already in the drawer.' Then I woke.
There remains another memory
which I find it difficult to dispel, the doom-laden twenty-fours I
spent in Dien Bien Phu in January
1954. Nine years later when I
was asked by the Sunday Times to
write on ‘a decisive battle of my choice', it was Dien
Bien Phu that came straightway to my mind.
Fifteen Decisive Battles of the World -
Sir Edward
Creasy gave that classic title to his
book in 1851, but it is doubtful whether any battle listed there was
more
decisive than Dien Bien Phu in 1954.
Even
Sedan, which came too late for Creasy, was only an episode in
Franco-German
relations, decisive for the moment in a provincial dispute, but the
decision
was to be reversed in 1918, and that decision again in 1940.
Dien
Bien Phu, however, was a
defeat for more than the French army. The battle marked virtually the
end of
any hope the Western Powers might have entertained that they could
dominate the
East. The French with Cartesian clarity accepted the verdict. So, too,
to a
lesser extent, did the British: the independence of Malaya, whether the
Malays
like to think it or not, was won for them when the Communist forces of
General
Giap, an ex-geography professor of Hanoi University, defeated the
forces of
General Navarre, ex-cavalry officer, ex-Deuxieme Bureau chief, at Dien
Bien
Phu. (That young Americans were still to die in Vietnam only shows that it
takes
time for the echoes even of a total defeat to encircle the globe.)
The
battle
itself, the heroic
stand of Colonel de Castries' men while the conference of the Powers at
Geneva
dragged along, through the debates on Korea, towards the second item on
the
agenda - Indo-China - every speech in Switzerland punctuated by deaths
in that
valley in Tonkin - has been described many times. Courage will always
find a
chronicler, but what remains a mystery to this day is why the battle
was ever
fought at all, why twelve battalions of the French army were committed
to the
defence of an armed camp situated in a hopeless geographical
terrain-hopeless
for defence and hopeless for the second objective, since the camp was
intended
to be the base of offensive operations. (For this purpose a squadron of
ten
tanks was assembled there, the components dropped by parachute.)
A
commission
of inquiry was
appointed in Paris
after the defeat, but no conclusion was ever reached. A battle of words
followed the carnage. Monsieur Laniel, who was Prime Minister when the
decision
was taken to fight at Dien Bien Phu, published his memoirs, which
attacked the
strategy and conduct of General Navarre, and General Navarre published
his
memoirs attacking M. Laniel and the_politicians of Paris. M. Laniel's book
was called Le
Drame Indo-Chinois and General
Navarre's Agonie
de
l'Indo-Chine,
a
difference in title which represents the difference between the war as
seen in Paris and the war as seen
in Hanoi.
For
the future
historian the
difference between the titles will seem smaller than the contradictions
in the
works themselves. Accusations are bandied back and forth between the
politician
who had never visited the scene of the war and the general who had
known it
only for a matter of months when the great error was made.
The
war, which
had begun in
September 1946, was, in 1953, reaching a period for the troops not so
much of
exhaustion as of cynicism and dogged pride - they believed in no
solution but
were not prepared for any surrender. In the southern delta around
Saigon it had
been for a long while a war of ambush and attrition - in Saigon itself
of
sudden attacks by handmade and bombs; in the north, in Tonkin, the
French
defence against the Viet Minh depended on the so-called lines of Hanoi established by
General de Lattre. The lines were not real lines; Viet Minh regiments
would
appear out of the rice-fields in sudden attacks close to Hanoi itself before they
vanished
again into
the mud. I was witness of one such attack at Phat Diem, and in Bui Chu,
well
within the lines, sleep was disturbed by mortar-fire until dawn. While
it was
the avowed purpose of the High Command to commit the Viet Minh to a
major
action, it became evident with the French evacuation of Hoa Binh, which
de
Lattre had taken with the loss, it was popularly believed, of one man,
that
General Giap was no less anxious to commit the French army, on ground
of his own
choosing.
Salan
succeeded de Lattre,
and Navarre
succeeded Salan, and every year the number of officers killed was equal
to a
whole class at Saint-Cyr (the war was a drain mainly on French
officers, for
National Service troops were not employed in Indo-China on the excuse
that this
was not a war, but a police action). Something somewhere had to give,
and what
gave was French intelligence in both senses of the word.
There
is a bit
of a
schoolmaster in an intelligence officer; he imbibes information at
second hand
and passes it on too often as gospel truth. Giap being an ex-professor,
it was
thought suitable perhaps to send against him another schoolmaster, but·
Giap
was better acquainted with his subject - the geography of his own
northern
country.
The
French for
years had been
acutely sensitive to the Communist menace to the kingdom of Laos
on their flank. The little umbrageous royal capital of Luang Prabang,
on the
banks of the Mekong, consisting mainly
of
Buddhist temples, was threatened every campaigning season by Viet Minh
guerrilla regiments, but I doubt whether the threat was ever as serious
as the
French supposed. Ho Chi Minh can hardly have been anxious to add a
Buddhist to
a Catholic problem in the north, and Luang Prabang remained inviolate.
But the
threat served its purpose. The French left their 'lines'.
In
November
1953, six
parachute battalions dropped on Dien Bien Phu,
a plateau ten miles by five, surrounded by thickly wooded hills, all in
the
hands of the enemy. When I visited the camp for twenty-four hours in
January
1954, the huge logistic task had been accomplished; the airstrip was
guarded by
strongpoint’s on small hills, there were trenches, underground
dug-outs, and
miles and miles and miles of wire. (General Navarre wrote with Maginot
pride of
his wire.) The number of battalions had been doubled, the tanks
assembled, the
threat to Luang Prabang had been contained, if such a threat really
existed,
but at what a cost.
It
is easy to
have hindsight,
but what impressed me as I flew in on a transport plane from Hanoi, three hundred
kilometres
away, over
mountains impassable to a mechanized force, was the vulnerability and
the
isolation of the camp. It could be reinforced - or evacuated - only by
air,
except by the route to Laos,
and as we came down towards the landing -strip I was uneasily conscious
of
flying only a few hundred feet above the invisible enemy.
General
Navarre writes with
naivete and pathos, 'There was not one civil or military authority who
visited
the camp (French or foreign ministers, French chiefs of staff, American
generals) who was not struck by the strength of the defences …. To my
knowledge
no one expressed any doubt before the attack about the possibilities of
resistance.' Is anyone more isolated from human contact than a
commander-in-chief?
One
scene of
evil augury
comes back to my mind. We were drinking Colonel de Castries' excellent
wine at
lunch in the mess, and the colonel, who had the nervy histrionic
features of an
old-time actor, overheard the commandant of his artillery discussing
with
another officer the evacuation of the French post of Na-San during the
last
campaigning season. De Castries struck his fist on the table and cried
out with
a kind of Shakespearian hysteria, 'Be silent. I will not have Na-San
mentioned
in this mess. Na-San was a defensive post. This is an offensive one.'
There was
an uneasy silence until de Castries' seconding-command asked me whether
I had
seen Claudel's Christophe Colombe as I passed through Paris. (The officer who
had
mentioned Na-San
was to shoot himself during the siege.)
After
lunch,
as I walked
round the intricate entrenchments, I asked an officer, 'What did the
colonel
mean? An offensive post?' He waved at the surrounding hills: 'We should
need a
thousand mules - not a squadron of tanks - to take the offensive.'
M.
Laniel
writes of the
unreal optimism which preceded the attack. In Hanoi optimism may have
prevailed,
but not in
the camp itself. The defences were out of range of mortar fire from the
surrounding hills, but not an officer doubted that heavy guns were on
the way
from the Chinese frontier (guns elaborately camouflaged, trundled in by
bicycle
along almost impassable ways by thousands of coolies - a feat more
brilliant
than the construction of the camp). Any night they expected a
bombardment to
open. It was no novelist's imagination which felt the atmosphere heavy
with
doom, for these men were aware of what they resembled - sitting ducks.
In
the
meanwhile, before the
bombardment opened, the wives and sweethearts of officers visited them
in the
camp by transport plane for a few daylight hours: ardent little scenes
took
place in dug-outs - it was pathetic and forgivable, even though it was
not war.
The native contingents, too, had their wives - more permanently - with
them,
and it was a moving sight to see a woman suckling her baby beside a
sentry
under waiting hills. It wasn't war, it wasn't optimism - it was the
last
chance.
The
Viet Minh
had chosen the
ground for their battle by their menace to Laos. M. Laniel wrote
that it would
have been better to have lost Laos
for the moment than to have lost both Laos and the French
army, and he
put the blame on the military command. General Navarre in return
accused the
French Government of insisting at all costs on the defence of Laos.
All
reason for
the
establishment of the camp seems to disappear in the debate - somebody
somewhere
misunderstood, and passing the buck became after the battle a new form
of
logistics. Only the Viet Minh dispositions make sense, though even
there a
mystery remains. With their artillery alone the Communists could have
forced
the surrender of Dien Bien Phu. A man cannot
be evacuated by parachute, and the airstrip was out of action a few
days after
the assault began.
A
heavy fog,
curiously not
mentioned by either General Navarre or M. Laniel, filled the cup among
the
hills every night around ten, and it did not lift again before eleven
in the
morning. (How impatiently I waited for it to lift after my night in a
dug-out.)
During that period parachute supplies were impossible and it was
equally
impossible for planes from Hanoi
to spot the enemy's guns. Under these circumstances why inflict on
one's own
army twenty thousand casualties by direct assault?
But
the Great
Powers had
decided to negotiate, the Conference of Geneva had opened in the last
week of
April with Korea
first on the agenda, and individual lives were not considered
important. It was
preferable as propaganda for General Giap to capture the post by direct
assault
during the course of the Geneva Conference. The assault began on 13
March 1954,
and Dien Bien Phu fell on 7 May, the day before the delegates turned at
last
from the question of Korea
to the question of Indo-China.
But
General
Giap could not be
confident that the politicians of the West, who showed a certain guilt
towards
the defenders of Dien Bien Phu while they were discussing at such
length the
problem of Korea, would have continued to talk long enough to give him
time to
reduce Dien Bien Phu by artillery alone.
So
the battle
had to be
fought with the maximum of human suffering and loss. M. Mendes-France,
who had
succeeded M; Laniel, needed his excuse for surrendering the north of
Vietnam
just as General Giap needed his spectacular victory by frontal assault
before
the forum of the Powers to commit Britain and America to a division of
the
country.
The
Sinister
Spirit sneered:
'It had to be!'
And
again the Spirit of Pity
whispered, 'Why?'