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TRAVEL
Tales of mythical Africa
Where fact meets tropical
baroque: Kapuscinski and literary colonial
JOHN RYLE
Ryszard Kapuscinski
THE SHADOW OF THE SUN 336pp. Allen Lane
The
Penguin Press. £18.99. TLS £18.49.
071399455 X
In
a career extending over
four decades, Ryszard Kapuscinski has published accounts of Iran, of
travels in
his homeland, Poland, and the former Soviet Union, and a collection of
reportage from a number of Third-World countries including Honduras, El
Salvador, Chile and Bolivia. But his principal subject has been Africa,
where,
in the late 1950s, in his mid-twenties, after a brief spell in India and Pakistan, he began his
career as a
foreign correspondent, working for the Polish state news agency. In the
1960s,
he covered the early years of independence and the first of the
postcolonial
civil wars that have ravaged the continent ever since. In the 1970s, he
revisited these conflicts in a sequence of works of reflective
reportage, works
in which he transformed himself from a journalist into an author of
international stature. In The Emperor: The downfall of an autocrat, his
account
of the final years of the reign of Haile Selassie I, which appeared in
Polish
in 1978, Kapuscinski invented a new subgenre of political reportage. In
a series
of linked testimonies from former Ethiopian court officials he created
an
arresting picture of the accelerating collapse of an authoritarian
regime. This
was a story that had special resonance for his audience in Poland,
where
dissent against Communist autocracy was growing. The Emperor was also
the book
that established Kapuscinski's reputation in the West. When it appeared
in
English translation, in 1983, it was an immediate critical success. In
1987, in
Another Day of Life (published in Polish in 1976), he chronicled the
beginning
of the civil war in Angola
and the disintegration of civil institutions in the capital, Luanda. In The
Soccer War (1990), he
collected vignettes of insurrection and revolution in Ghana and the Congo, Ethiopia
and Somalia,
juxtaposing them with accounts of
conflicts in South America. Each of
these
books added to Kapuscinski' s reputation, leading more than one critic
to
compare his work to that earlier chronicler of the tropics and human
beings in
extreme situations - his compatriot Jozef Korzeniowski, better known as
Joseph
Conrad.
The Shadow of the Sun is a
more substantial collection of episodes from Kapuscinski' s sojourns in
Africa,
starting in Ghana
in the
1950s and ending in Tanzania
in the recent past. Moving back and forth in time, and sometimes right
out of
time, it is a loose record of a life spent intermittently in countries
south of
the Sahara. There are accounts here
of the
revolution in Zanzibar, the 1966 military coup in Nigeria and the early
days of
civil war in Liberia; there are reflections from unnamed places in the
desert
and from lodgings in the back streets of Lagos. Here are classics of
the
Kapuscinski style: on the one hand, there is the tableau vivant, where
almost
nothing happens (the intricate design of the interior of a bush taxi,
the
beneficial effect of plastic jerry-cans on the lives of rural women);
on the
other, the the hair-raising adventure,
where he characteristically risks death by thirst, tropical disease,
snake
bite, or act of war, combining unabashed deering-do with philosophical
reflections on the world outside Europe.
It is in the reflective
passages that doubts about the precision of Kapuscinski's reportage
occur. The
force of his writing depends on certainty, on the voice of experience,
the
authority of someone who, we are told in Shah of Shahs, has survived
twenty-seven coups and revolutions, who has driven through burning
roadblocks
and stayed behind in besieged cities, the only foreign correspondent
remaining
when the rest of the press-pack leaves. (As he put it, a trifle
immodestly, in
The Soccer War, "I was driving along a road from where they say no
white
man can come back alive.") For such reasons Kapuscinski's writing tends
to
be favored by those for whom Africa
is a
distant prospect; he makes the remote areas of the continent
simultaneously
more thrilling and more accessible. But his work is regarded less
favorably by
many African readers, and by Africanists, both scholars and reporters,
who
doubt its accuracy.
Questions about the
reliability of Kapuscinski' s reportage begin with The Emperor. His
informants
here are former court servants who labor under anonymizing initials,
like
characters in an eighteenth-century novel. Only one of those who
assisted
Kapuscinski is named (and that, we are told, is because he is dead),
yet the
power of the book derives to a large extent from the fact that it is
told
almost entirely through the transcribed speech of these witnesses.
Their
antiquated cadences have a mesmeric quality. With courtly unctuousness
they
speak of "His Venerable Majesty", "His Most Virtuous
Highness", "His Sublime Majesty", "His Charitable
Majesty", "His Exalted Majesty", "His Indefatigable
Majesty", "His Masterful Highness", "Our Omnipotent
Ruler". These expressions of fealty acquire an air of increasing irony
as
the excesses of the Imperial court are borne in on the reader. It is a
subtle
piece of reportorial rhetoric. But native speakers of Amharic maintain
that
these honorifics do not correspond to any expressions in their
language. In
particular they could not occur in the formal registers of speech
employed at
court, where there were only one or two acceptable forms of address for
the
Emperor. So they cannot have been spoken as transcribed. Some of the
titles that
Kapuscinski gives to his sources are invented too. In the absence of
names,
this may be held to cast some doubt on their existence. What Kapuscmski
and his
translators created in The Emperor was a brilliant device, an imaginary
archaic
language that bespeaks homage while conveying subversion, but it falls
short of
both scholarly and journalistic standards of verifiability, and even of
verisimilitude.
There are other
implausibilities in The Emperor. We are told that Haile Selassie did
not read
books: "His Venerable Majesty was no reader. For him, neither the
written
nor the printed word existed; everything had to be relayed by word of
mouth." But Haile Selassie was undoubtedly well read, both in Amharic
and
in French. He possessed a large library where he spent a good deal of
time and
provided copious written comments on manuscripts submitted to him. It
seems
unlikely that his own palace servants could have been unaware of this.
(Haile
Selassie's reading habits are documented in a memoir by Hans Lockot,
head of
research at the National Library of Ethiopia during his reign.)
Kapuscinski in
fact describes one of his informants bringing him the first volume of
Haile
Selassie's autobiography, an English translation made by the scholar
Edward
Ullendorff. But the event is taking place in 1974, and Ullenndorff s
translation did not appear until two years later, in 1976. So it cannot
have
happened in the way described.
In answer to such criticisms
it is sometimes argued that The Emperor is not meant to be about Ethiopia at all, that it is an allegory
of
Communist power in Poland,
or of autocratic systems anywhere. The book is undoubtedly informed and
deepened by these parallels. Its reception among
literati in the West was also conditioned by
an awareness of its
doubly exotic origin: a book about a far-off country by an author who
was
himself a rara avis, an apparent
master of Tom Wolfe's new journalism sprung from within the Soviet
bloc.
Apologists for The Emperor situate it, more subtly, in a Polish
literary genre
where dissent masquerades as descriptive prose (Kapuscinski has
latterly
endorsed this view); yet the book gives no indication that it is meant
to be
regarded as an allegory, or as a traveller's tale in the same genre as Rasselas or Prester John. It is
presented ambiguously as reportage. The dearth
of other sources on the subject - - no member of the Imperial Court
wrote a memoir of Haile
Selassie - would give it documentary importance, if it could be
trusted. At the
time of publication there was, of course, every reason for Kapuscinski
to
maintain the confidentiality of his living sources. Two regimes later,
there
seems no reason for their anonymity to be preserved, particularly since
other
court servants have given legal testimony in Addis Ababa as witnesses
in the
trial of the Derg, the regime, headed by Colonel Mengistu Haile Mariam,
that
deposed the Emperor.
Kapuscinski's return to Ethiopia in the
1990s to visit imprisoned members of the Derg occupies one of the later
chapters of The Shadow of the Sun.
This could have been the occasion for a consideration of the issues
raised by
his earlier work, but he makes no mention of it. The account of his
visit to
the Central Prison in Addis
Ababa
raises more doubts about his fidelity to facts. "After Mengistu's
escape", he writes, "his army dispersed and only the academics were
left. They were seized without great difficulty and imprisoned in this
crowded
courtyard." This characterization of the inmates of the prison is
misleading (it contradicts, in fact, an earlier reference by
Kapuscinski to the
"generals of the army and police" among those captured followers of
Mengistu). I visited the prison myself around the same time. Some of
the
prisoners were indeed academics, but officials of the former regime who
could
be seen there included many prominent military figures: Fikre-Selassie
Weg-Deres, an air-force captain who was Mengistu's Prime Minister, Teka
Tulu,
an army colonel who was his Chief of Internal Security, Sgt Legesse
Asfaw, the
Butcher of Tigray, and the equally notorious Melaku Tefera, Butcher of
Gondar.
None of these people were, by any stretch of the imagination,
academics. Nor
had they been that easy to capture: Melaku Tefera, in particular, was
pursued
across the desert to Djibouti,
where he was nabbed by an Ethiopian hit squad.
Kapuscinski's chapter on Ethiopia has
other odd bits of misinformation. To take just one: he describes
visiting the
bookstore in the University
of Addis Ababa.
It is, he
says, the country's only bookstore, and it is completely devoid of
books.
Really? There are at least half a dozen bookshops in Addis Ababa, all
with books for sale, and
have been since the Derg era. Yet Kapuscinski has himself been a
trenchant
critic of inaccuracy in news reporting. "The ignorance of special
correspondents ... is sometimes astonishing", he said in a lecture some
years ago.
He prides himself, also, on
his personal contact with ordinary people. "I avoided official routes,
palaces, important personages and big politics", he writes in the early
pages of The Shadow of the Sun.
"Instead I preferred to hitch rides on passing trucks, wander with
nomads
through the desert, be the guest of peasants from the tropical
savannah."
Yet he gets basic facts about the lives of such people wrong. In his
chapter on Sudan we
are told that the
Dinka and the Nuer, tropical savannah dwellers who comprise half the
population
of Southern Sudan, "subsist almost
exclusively on milk". "Killing cattle", he continues, "is
forbidden, and women cannot touch them." But it is men, not women,
among
the Dinka and Nuer who don't milk cows; the work is done mostly by
girls. And
none of them live on milk, except in special circumstances. They live
on grain
and fish - and on meat from their cattle and other livestock. The
sacrifice of
cattle, far from being forbidden, is a central part of their religion.
It is perhaps not surprising,
in view of this made-up ethnography of the peoples of Southern Sudan, that he gets the politics wrong
as well. "The first
Sudanese war lasted ten years," he says, "until 1972." But the
first civil war in Sudan
did not last ten years. It lasted seventeen years, from Independence, in
1955, until 1972. Sudan,
he tells
us, was a British colony. It was not; it was an Anglo-Egyptian
condominium.
There are "gigantic plantations" of rubber on the Nile.
There are not. If you want an accurate summary of the war in Sudan
you would
do better to read John Le
Carre's The Constant Gardener, which doesn't pretend to be anything
other than
a novel.
There are a host of other
errors in The Shadow of the Sun, small but cumulative in effect. The Bari are not, as
Kapuscinski states, a Ugandan people, but Sudanese. Bandits in the
Somali-Kenya-Ethiopia borderlands are called shifta,
not "shifts". There are no people called the
Lugabra. There is nowhere called Haragwe. The Kakwa of Uganda, ldi
Amin's
people, do not live in a region "without roads ... and cultivable
land". (The last inaccuracy would be less remarkable if Kapuscinski did
not tell us that he once considered writing a book about Amin and has
amassed a
small library about him.)
How much does all this
matter? It is reasonable, I think, to be concerned if the fundamental
beliefs
of 2 or 3 million Nilotes are casually misrepresented. And it clearly
matters
to the family of Haile Selassie, as well as those trying to write the
recent
history of Ethiopia,
whether or not the unique testimonies that Kapuscinski was brave and
ingenious
enough to obtain are rendered accurately.
The Shadow of the Sun also
contains a startling number of generalizations about "Africa"
and "Africans". Such generalizations are dubious by definition: Africa is just too big and various a continent,
with too
many cultures and histories, too many contrasting natural environments,
for any
but the vaguest commonplace to apply to all of them. Initially,
Kapuscinski
seems to recognize this: in a prefatory note he announces, "in reality,
except as a geographical appellation, Africa
does not exist." Yet a few pages later, he is coming up with the first
of
an increasingly unlikely string of assertions about the continent and
its
inhabitants. "The European and the African", he writes, "have an
entirely different concept of time." "Africans believe that a
mysterious energy circulates through the world." Africans eat "only
once a day, in the evening". "Africans are collectivist by nature ...
all decisions ... are made collectively." "Half the people in African
towns don't have defined occupations." "In Africa,
drivers avoid traveling at night - darkness unnerves them .... "
Some of these things may be
true of some people in some parts of Africa,
sometimes. But none of them is anything like a general truth about
Africa - no
more than comparable statements about Asia or the Americas
would be. The difference
between Chad and Cape Town or Kinshasa
and
the Ogaden - is quite as great as that between New
York
and the Andes, Osaka and the Hindu Kush. There is a revealingly archaic note
in these obiter dicta,
scattered like talismans through Kapuscinski's text. In their
insistence on a
collective otherness there is something reminiscent of an earlier era
of
European writing about the continent. It is here that the comparison
with
Joseph Conrad, Kapuscinski's strong precursor, comes into its own. In
this
post-Conradian view of Africa, Kapuscinski is both character and
author; he is
a modem version of one of Conrad's voyager-narrators, following a
similar
trajectory into the interior of the continent, to a place where, to use
his
earlier phrase, "they say no white man can come back alive." It is a
narrative pattern familiar from Heart of Darkness. Thus, in a typical
episode of The Shadow of the
Sun, Kapuscinski travels to a difficult and dangerous place, falls ill
and
confronts death. He is witness to dreadful events, from which he
emerges with a
deeper understanding of the further reaches of human nature. At the
centre of
the present book is his lengthy account of the notorious video
recording made
of the death by torture of Samuel Doe, former head of state of Liberia.
There
is an echo here of the climax of Heart of Darkness, in which Marlow,
Conrad's
narrator, confronts the evidence of the ivory trader Kurtz's complicity
in
ritual murder and cannibalism. The row of severed heads outside Kurtz's
compound is mirrored in Kapuscinski's lingering description of Sgt
Doe's
severed ears.
The baroque note in
Kapuscinski's prose confirms the movement away from fact towards the
realm of
symbol. The African universe, for him, is a place of extremes, extremes
of
poverty, of climate, of violence and danger. Its inhabitants are
prisoners of
their environment. In Somalia,
"Daytime hours during the dry season ... are a hell almost impossible
to
bear. Everything is burning. Even the shade is hot, even the wind is
ablaze.
The human being ... does not exist - or he matters only as part of this
or that
bloodline." And further south, "One cannot compare the tropical
forest with any European forest or with any equatorial jungle" (yet a
tropical forest and an equatorial jungle are the same thing).
In this tropical baroque
style, nothing can be ordinary or familiar. Everything is stretched and
exaggerated. As Kapuscinski himself wrote of South American baroque,
"If
there is a jungle it has to be enormous if there are mountains they
have to be
gigantic if there is a plain it has to be endless .... Fact is mixed
with fantasy
here, truth with myth, realism with rhetoric." The direction of
Kapuscinski's
exaggerations and distortions becomes apparent. This is a continent
without
bookshops. Its inhabitants are prisoners of their environment. They
live on
milk. They are outside time. (Who knows? They may even have heads
beneath their
shoulders.) Europeans can never really understand them. Here we may be
getting
close to the truth, for the one thing that the inhabitants of this
hugely
various continent do have in common is the experience of European
colonialism
or occupation. And despite Kapuscinski's vigorously anti-colonial
stance, his
own writing about the continent is a variety of literary colonialism, a
kind of
gonzo orientalism, a highly selective imposition of form, conducted in
the name
of humane concern, that misrepresents Africans even as it purports to
speak for
them.
Such criticisms do not rob
Kapuscinski's writing of its bright allure, but they warn us not to
take it as
a guide to reality. In the last chapter of The Shadow of the Sun, there
is a
final epic generalization that embodies his ambiguous attitude to
factual
reportage and his attraction to the realm of poetry and fiction. "The
kind
of history known in Europe as
scholarly and
objective", Kapuscinski writes, "can never arise here because the
African past has no documents or records, and each generation,
listening to the
version being transmitted to it, changed it and continues to change it
....
" "As a result", he continues, "history, free of the weight
of archives, of the constraints of dates and data, achieves here its
purest,
crystalline form - that of myth."
This account of the role of
collective memory in African societies is partial in the extreme. Oral
history
can often be accurate; genealogies can be precise. And it leaves out of
account
decades of scholarly research and the existence of hundreds of
universities and
libraries in African countries, not all of which, Kapuscinski's view
notwithstanding, are empty or malfunctioning. It is, however, a fair
description of Ryszard Kapuscinski's own narrative aspirations. Here,
in the
domain of myth, the reporter is freed from the constraints of dates and
data,
the tedium of checking and cross-checking, the tyranny of documents and
records.
Here facts are no longer sacred; we are at play in the bush of ghosts,
free to
opine and to generalize about "Africa"
and "the African" without criticism from self-appointed guardians of
fact. Here, in place of facticity, there is endless mutability; in
place of
reportage, there is relativism. From this place, deep in an imaginary Africa, the writer can return with any tale he
wants.
TLS
July 27 2001
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